What’s more French than a slick of red lipstick? At tonight’s Nina Ricci show, makeup artist Aaron de Mey supplied the answer by turning the volume up on the classic Gallic color using a high-shine finish that had a distinctively all-American reference point. “It’s Coca Cola red,” he said of the perfectly calibrated shade, which struck an exact balance between red and orange undertones, and had a vinyl finish that was “almost like car paint.”
If a glossy crimson mouth seems high maintenance, it doesn’t necessarily have to be. The key, says De Mey, is all in the prep, and an extra two minutes might be worth the time, should your beauty reference be “Romy Schneider, the morning after—she’s put on sunglasses and a red lip and gone out on the street again.” Because really, whose isn’t?
Here, our four step guide to recreating the look.
Step 1: De Mey started with a blue-based Serge Lutens lipstick, which is a “really, really gorgeous red,” by layering it in a highly pigmented coat over the entire mouth.
Step 2: Next, he made it matte by pressing a one-ply tissue over the lips and blotting a bit of translucent powder over top. “It will really lock the color on to give it more longevity and keeps the gloss from bleeding later.”
Step 3: Once the shape was set, De Mey adjusted the shape with a matching red lip pencil to sharpen the edges. Rather than lining and filling in the entire mouth, he says, it fine tunes the borders only where needed for a lighter touch.
Step 4: Finally, just before models stepped onto the runway, De Mey and his team applied a glimmering tomato-red gloss, which read as reflective rather than glittery and canceled out the blue undertones of his base coat for a perfectly balanced hit of universally flattering crimson, which the makeup artist described as “sparkling, perfect, and as luxurious as a fast car.” Enough said, in any language.
The post A Beginner’s Guide to Vinyl Red Lips: Lessons From Backstage at Nina Ricci appeared first on Vogue.
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