When mulling over meatless options for the long season of outdoor grilling, it might seem strange to poll an Argentinian. After all, in that South American nation, land of gauchos and steer, it’s not uncommon to roast an entire cow for a 200-person wedding, or, say, a visiting prime minister of China, as chef Norberto Piattoni did in his four years working alongside Francis Mallmann.
While vegetables aren’t exactly the base of the food pyramid in Argentina (meat and starch invariably dominate, explains Piattoni), the rising chef has encountered his fair share of produce over the past three years in the United States, where a stint in Los Angeles sparked a love affair with the Santa Monica farmers’ market and time in the kitchen at San Francisco’s Bar Tartine fueled an interest in old-school methods of fermentation. “Everything is going back to the roots of cooking,” he says, and “cooking with fire is elemental.”
It’s also a culinary through-line for Piattoni, who grew up with regular asados in his hometown of Federación. Later this fall, that lifetime of grilling experience will culminate in a new restaurant in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene neighborhood, where he’s designing “an homage to an Argentinian fire pit, with a plancha, a grill, and different options of cooking using a wood-oven stove.” In the meantime, you’re likely to find the chef stocking up on lighter fare at the Union Square and Grand Army Plaza greenmarkets. “In this part of the year, spring and summer, you have all these beautiful vegetables in the market. Having a fire basically gives you a chance to put everything there—leeks, scallions, kale, corn,” he says.
With that in mind, Piattoni has singled out five favorite ingredients to grill now, as shown off in these unfussy, of-the-moment recipes. (He favors the Argentinian method, where hot coals and ashes transferred from a wood fire supply the radiant heat, but an American-style grill, with flames beneath the grate, also works.) For more immediate gratification, seek out his summerlong pop-up at Bushwick’s Fitzcarraldo, where you can sample the smoked-tomato vinaigrette, below; or sign up for tomorrow night’s alfresco dinner at Pioneer Works, where you’ll find whole beets buried in the glowing coals.
Summer Squash
“I was cooking the other weekend in upstate New York, and we made this dish: It was farro with charred summer squash, with lots of herbs and lemon,” Piattoni says. His preferred method of cooking is largely hands-off: Nestle the whole squash in the coals until it’s lightly charred, then wipe off any ashes and coarsely chop. (You can also split the squash in half, brush with olive oil, and grill cut-side down.) To finish off the salad, toss the squash and farro with lemon juice, oil, salt, pepper, and lemon zest. “And all the herbs you can find, basically—it’s summertime,” he says. “Mint, for sure, and parsley and chives.”
Cherry Tomatoes
How do you give a crisp green salad the savory heft of, say, brisket? Smoked-tomato vinaigrette. “It’s just the flavor from the hickory that we use. It’s pretty tasty,” Piattoni says. (We can vouch for that.) The how-to involves a simple, layered setup: First, spread hickory chips inside a stainless-steel hotel pan, then stack a second perforated pan on top; inside that, set little dishes filled with cherry tomatoes. Cover and set over hot coals, letting the tomatoes smoke. They’ll emerge browned and a little wilted, at which point you can peel, de-seed, and puree them in a blender. “For the vinaigrette, I’m using this rosé wine vinegar, roasted garlic, salt, pepper, and oil. That’s it!” he says. Pair with a handful of greens (he singles out the speckled Castelfranco radicchio), marjoram, and a dusting of bread crumbs.
Peaches
“Another thing that’s really good to grill right now is peaches,” Piattoni says, pointing out their versatility in everything from salads to uncomplicated desserts. After halving the fruit and removing the pits, cook them cut-side down in a cast-iron skillet or directly on the grill. “Season with some vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil, and mix it with arugula or serve it with basil and cheese, like burrata or stracciatella,” he suggests. Skewing sweet? Stick with the classics—vanilla ice cream or mascarpone cheese with a touch of cream—along with mint and pistachios.
Eggplant
“Eggplant is something I like to char, so I throw it right in the coals,” explains Piattoni. As with the summer squash, you’ll want to wipe off the ashes before slicing it lengthwise in half. Next comes a drizzle of garlic oil, herbs like marjoram and oregano, and salt and pepper; “maybe some sherry vinegar for some acidity,” he adds. The garlic oil can be made one of two ways: by gently warming a clove or two of garlic in oil “and let it kind of confit,” he says, or by chopping it finely and infusing it overnight. (If you’re doing the latter, strain out the garlic if you’re planning to store it for more than a couple days.)
Sweet Corn
On the cob, grilled corn is a backyard barbecue staple. “It also can be a really easy and really summery salad,” Piattoni says of the candy-like kernels. After removing the husk and cornsilk, brush the cob with oil before grilling, to give extra depth of flavor. “You don’t need to char it,” he notes; you just want it to brown slightly, coaxing out the natural sweetness. When the kernels have been sliced off, combine them with halved grape tomatoes, torn basil, red wine vinegar, and olive oil.
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