How to Layer Your Skin Care: The Pro’s Guide to Applying Your Face Cream, Serum, Sunscreen, and More

Peels, concentrates, emulsions, mists, serums: It can be tricky enough to decode what certain beauty products do, let alone how to effectively apply each one in your routine. Which comes first? What goes under or over makeup? “Navigating the basics of how to layer skin care products is one of the most confusing topics among my patients,” admits the New York City dermatologist Neal Schultz, M.D. With fall’s new arrivals now at your fingertips, it can be tempting to dip into multiple formulas at once. But even the best intentions can backfire: Piling on an excess of products can interfere with their absorption and potentially lead to irritation, congested pores, and lackluster results (essentially, the exact opposite of what you’d hoped for). To avoid those pitfalls, we consulted the pros, and put together a definitive field guide to layering your beauty essentials.

Observe the rule of three. Most dermatologists agree that applying more than three formulas at a time can be a bit overwhelming (for you, and your skin). “The problem with using so many product is that there’s a dilution factor, and possible conflicts with the active ingredients in those different items,” says Schultz. Slathering several hydrating formulas onto your face could cause them to simply pile up, rather than penetrate, while cocktailing too many potent salicylic acid serums and retinol creams could leave your skin inflamed. For that reason, New York City dermatologist Elizabeth K. Hale, M.D. says she’s a “minimalist” and prefers multitasking formulas (for instance, a face cream that contains antioxidants, moisturizers, and peptides, or a retinol serum that tackles fine lines and breakouts at the same time).

Weigh your options. After cleansing your face, keep this guideline in mind: “In general, you always want to layer based on weight or viscosity of products,” advises Schultz. So if you have multiple elixirs in front of you—a brightening essence, a dark spot eliminator, a plumping gel—quickly assess their textures. The thinnest should go on first. If all things are equal in consistency? Be strategic. “Go for the most concentrated product that will tackle your top concern,” recommends Hale, such as 2 percent dioic acid acne treatment, followed by something milder and meant to soothe, like a vitamin D–infused serum.

Factor in sun protection. The easiest way to never forget sunscreen: Choose a moisturizer that already contains one (and, as an added bonus, antioxidants to fend off UV-damage, which “are paramount to skin renewal,” notes Schultz). Opt for a lightweight lotion or hydrating primer with SPF if you anticipate using a creamy foundation next to avoid any caking. Let it absorb fully, then move ahead with your makeup. Should you decide to really streamline your routine? Well, those BB and CC multitasking, tinted creams were invented for a reason. “They’re a win-win, as their many active ingredients make them multifunctional,” says Schultz. It might be wise to keep a tube on hand, for those instances when time only allows for one—brilliantly executed—layer.

Reconsider the night shift. Apply re-texturizing products that exfoliate the complexion and leave you sun-sensitive, such as peels and pads with glycolic acid or retinol, to cleansed skin in the evening. In most cases, it’s fine—even preferable—to top with a hydrating facial oil, emulsion, or essence to limit irritation. Even those who swear by Retin-A can reach for moisturizer afterward. “Patients do it all the time to minimize dryness,” points out dermatologist Patricia Farris, M.D. Just stick with a thicker occlusive crème or balm, rather than a viscous lotion: Otherwise, “it will thin out the Retin-A, in the same way that adding water to cake batter thins it out,” says Schulz.

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