Ina Maribo Jensen strode across the glass-domed courtyard of the École des Beaux-Arts today, her sharp red bob shining in the sunlight—one in a passage of redheaded models who boldly opened Sonia Rykiel’s Spring 2017 show, the first since the eponymous designer passed in late August and a moving tribute to her iconic cloud of flame-color hair.
“They’re all [a range of] redheads, and I like the idea that it could have been Sonia through her life at different stages,” observed hairstylist Paul Hanlon, who cited Janis Joplin and Woodstock as further references, pulling from the free-spirited ’70s that Rykiel had loved. To suit, blonde and dark-haired models received soft, brushed-out curls to mimic her ever-present frizz: loads of Kérastase Mousse Bouffante rough-dried into the lengths, then teased section by section, before Hanlon and his team crafted marcel waves with double-barrel curling irons. “But because it’s been back-combed, it makes it rather erratic,” he explained. “I’m going to literally pull it with my fingers until it looks in the back almost like a nest.”
To enhance that wildness, the makeup, too, played reference to Rykiel, as makeup artist Lisa Eldridge smudged shimmering navy shadow from Lancôme’s Saint-Germain palette along the lashes and let it bleed a bit—not only in reference to Rykiel’s blurred liner, but to designer Julie de Libran, who always wears a haphazard slick on the top lid. “She is for me, the modern incarnation of Sonia,” Eldridge explained. A beautiful melding of past, present, and future at the house of Rykiel.
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