Who is the Versace woman? This is the fundamental question that Donatella Versace will revisit tonight, when the house’s Fall 2016 show bows in Milan. In the past, the Italian designer has found inspiration in boldface names—Elizabeth Hurley, Jennifer Lopez—and other striking women with boundless confidence, but a quick glance at the runway reveals that when it comes to the backstage beauty regimens, the designer’s own signature look offers a slick, high-impact statement to flatter the plunging necklines and thigh-high slits in each collection.
It’s a simple formula that has stayed constant for years, no matter the clothes. There are always swipes of pitch-black liner tightly encircling the eyes in a dramatic gesture. Sometimes there’s shadow, too, pressed deep into the socket—Donatella is never seen without it—that equally complements black leather bustiers and flowing Grecian gowns. Faces are left quite bare, showcasing models’ sculpted cheekbones, while nude lips ground the look in nonchalance.
For Donatella, hair is the thing: Whether it’s Imaan Hammam’s thick dark mane or Natasha Poly’s blonde waves, sleek lengths are blown out to create a voluminous, windswept effect—no second-day texture in sight. As for those signature slits that hit thigh-high—or higher—that angular flash of skin manages to make the mile-long legs of Karlie Kloss and Raquel Zimmermann look even longer. It’s an effect that the young Donatella once favored, particularly when paired with another Versace staple: bare shoulders and décolletage, displayed year-round. And why not? It all adds up to a kind of infallible bombshell glamour that carries tight bandage dresses and pinstriped suit coats with equal success—is it any wonder that Donatella returns to it again and again? Here’s to the eternal appeal of Versace’s va-va-voom beauty, an effortless house staple that needs no rethinking.
Rock ’n’ Roll Kohl
The Bold Shoulder
Great Lengths
Mile-Long Legs
Watch all of our Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear videos:
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