Saturday, April 2, 2016

Which Natural Sugar Alternative Is Best? Chefs and Nutritionists Weigh In

sugar

Sugar: It’s a term of endearment, a marker of celebration, a hard-wired reward. Over the course of a few generations, however, sugar has slinked from the sidelines of our diet to become something of a thrice-daily indulgence—proudly on display in artisanal doughnuts, sprinkled into coffee, and slipped unnoticed into condiments and salad dressings. “Just 100 years ago we ate less than two pounds a year,” author Sarah Wilson writes in The I Quit Sugar Cookbook, published last month. “Now we eat 132 pounds a year of added sugar. Dis-as-ter.” As for the effects of that runaway sweet tooth, experts point to an increased risk of Type 2 diabetes and heart disease, not to mention an expanded waistline; gut health and skin quality can be compromised as well.

Which is why there has been a collective call to minimize sugar intake, from the government (which recently revised its dietary guidelines accordingly) to nutritionists and health-minded bakers. Here, a handful of experts—Marissa Lippert, M.S., R.D., a registered dietitian who runs the café Nourish Kitchen + Table in New York; Erin McKenna, whose namesake bakeries rethink classic sweets; and the wellness company Aloha’s resident nutritionist, Jillian Tuchman, M.S., R.D.—discuss eight popular alternative sweeteners. Though these natural substitutes are better than processed sugar—they contain more nutrients, and some even have fiber to slow absorption—the group still unanimously advises a less-is-more approach. “You can make anything the enemy when you have too much of it,” says Lippert, who advocates retraining the palate to expect less sweetness from food. One upside to that approach? Newfound appreciation for that first sun-ripened peach of summer.

Agave
This cactus-derived sweetener “in theory is better for diabetics,” says Lippert, referring to its lower glycemic impact, though she advises using a light hand. “We use agave occasionally when roasting certain vegetables like carrots because it helps bring out their own natural sweetness,” she explains. McKenna regularly incorporates it into her baked goods, noting that “it doesn’t spike your blood sugar the way that regular sugar does, and it doesn’t have an aftertaste.” But Tuchman sounds a note of caution, citing the often high levels of processing used to produce agave, in which case it can “more closely resemble high-fructose corn syrup.”

Brown rice syrup
In The I Quit Sugar Cookbook, this natural sweetener frequently pops up in Wilson’s recipes. “It is relatively slow-releasing, so [it] does not dump on the liver as much as pure glucose,” she writes. Still, Lippert points out, it’s often a primary component of so-called “healthy” protein bars—“That means sugar is the first ingredient,” she says, suggesting close label-reading.

Coconut sugar
Made from the flower sap of the coconut palm, this sweetener is touted as being lower on the glycemic index and therefore less likely to cause blood-sugar spikes. Tuchman singles it out as one of her favorite alternatives. “There are nutrients in there, namely zinc and iron, and also something called inulin, a special type of dietary fiber that acts as a prebiotic,” she explains of the digestion booster, which sweetens the protein-packed Superfood Banana Donuts that McKenna developed for Aloha. Over at Nourish, the raw date-walnut energy balls are rolled in coconut sugar for a light crunch with a “caramel-y note,” says Lippert; she also suggests trying it in Asian-style marinades.

Date
As far as unprocessed sweeteners go, the date has a singular appeal. “To me, it’s sultry, it’s rich, it’s delicious,” says Lippert, explaining that “the fruit itself obviously is going to have more fiber content, which helps slow down digestion.” That said, a little goes a long way. “One date is 60 calories,” she points out, “so it’s very highly concentrated in sweetness and sugar.” She incorporates it into smoothies, as well as retooled standards like sticky toffee date cake.

Honey
With all the varieties out there—some of which sneak in corn syrup or rely on caged bees—quality is key, according to Tuchman: “Getting [it] from the wild—I think with all foods, not just with sugar—that’s really what you want to aim for.” Lippert, who is partial to the raw honey from Westwind Orchard, agrees. She imagines it swirled sparingly into tea or drizzled atop clementine-cornmeal cake. “It doesn’t affect blood sugar as much,” she says, “but it’s dense and very sweet and should be used in moderation.”

Maple
“We love maple syrup,” says Lippert, who notes its deep flavor and solid nutrient profile. (It can contain such minerals as iron, calcium, zinc, manganese, and potassium.) She uses it atop peanut butter–banana toast and oatmeal at breakfast; it also lends a touch of sweetness to glazes and sauces for savory dishes.

Panela
A type of unrefined whole-cane sugar, panela “holds on to more vitamins and minerals,” explains Lippert, who calls out its “light molasses-y note. It has this interesting depth of flavor.” Coffee drinkers will find a jar of panela on the counter at Nourish, where it’s also available for sale. Her brand of choice: Brooklyn-based Obelo, which sources its organic version from Colombia.

Stevia
Derived from the leaves of the Stevia rebaudiana plant, this sweetener is “300 to 450 times sweeter than sugar,” Wilson explains in The I Quit Sugar Cookbook—reason enough for a light touch. She uses the liquid version in her recipes (it comes powdered or granulated as well), which Tuchman prefers because it’s “not as highly processed.” One caveat, Wilson notes: It “has a licorice-y aftertaste that some people take a while to get used to.”

 

The post Which Natural Sugar Alternative Is Best? Chefs and Nutritionists Weigh In appeared first on Vogue.

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